Hjordis Fogelberg, author of beloved Ibiza guide My Ibiza & Formentera, is a much-loved character on the island, where she’s lived for most of her life. Born to a Danish father and English mother, who both veered off the beaten track in pursuit of bohemian paradise back in the ‘60s, the island has simultaneously served as her home, playground and creative inspiration for decades. So much so that her bestselling guidebook is now considered a must-have for anyone on an Ibiza jaunt. And though she may be an Ibicenca to the core, it’s on Ibiza’s neighbouring island of Formentera that she slips into a slower, more restful pace of life. Here, she recounts her favourite Formentera memories, what she loves about the tiny island, and her top tips for what to eat, drink and watch sunset.
What’s your earliest Formentera memory?
I first went to Formentera when I was eight years old. We stayed at Isabel Echarri’s house. She was a famous artist and her husband Diego was a set designer in Paris. Their house was located on the old road of La Mola, just a 10-minute walk from Sant Francesc, and it was absolutely divine.
One day, their beautiful teenage daughters stuck me in the back of their old Mehari and drove to a beach they called Tanga (Playa de Llevant) on the east side of the island. I can still remember sitting there on the dunes, watching these beautiful tanned girls in their little bikinis alongside a gang of guys, all laughing and singing and free. The sun was setting behind us and I remember thinking I wanted to be them so badly! I have never forgotten that feeling.
What does Formentera mean to you?
Since that day, Formentera has signified freedom to me and I’ve been going ever since. I’ve sailed there and camped in Espalmador; I’ve cycled around the whole island; I’ve stayed in gorgeous little beach houses with no electricity, and outrageously luxurious villas… It has been my second home all my life. It’s the place I escape to — I just hop on my bike, take the ferry over, and as soon as I
disembark, I feel immediately different.
What’s your favourite Formentera memory?
Twenty years ago I met a family on a little beach on the east side of the island, and I started renting their utterly dreamy beach house every year. We were joined by friends, and were lucky enough to share unforgettable moments together. Every morning, the sun rose above the sea in front of the house. It had no electricity, just candles. It was the place my daughter grew up in each summer, swimming and doing puzzles, reading and playing cards everyday. No phones, no TV. It was heaven. The house was sold last year which tore my heart into pieces. But we were lucky while it lasted.
What can people expect when they visit?
Formentera is a foodies’ dream, there are so many delicious places to dine in. Plus the sea is crystal clear, and the sand whiter than white.
Name your favourite place in Formentera for:
- A hearty breakfast: Blat Picat, Sant Ferran de Ses Roques
- A romantic dinner: Can Carlos, Sant Francesc
- A liberating swim: Playa de Llevant
- A pastel-shaded sunset: Mojitos at the shack in Cala Saona
- Nocturnal fun: Drinks in all the little bars in Es Pujols. There´s a little night hippy market there too.
